Coventry
has an overall ugly kind of thing going on, but look carefully and there are
some real gems. I will just caveat this by saying that I really didn’t have
much time while I was there. My 2 hours to refresh my memory were eroded down
to just 40 minutes thanks to my meeting over-running so much, so I didn’t have
time to go to many places, such as the transport museum or Memorial Park, but I assure you I did my best!
Also, the economic climate means that bars, restaurants and shops are changing
all the time, so I won’t go into too much detail there.
That
said, there is still quite a bit here, and it can all be found by
walking one continuous loop well within the compact city centre - no
trekking required!
Coventry has a rich history of
inventors and engineers, and statues or monuments to famous Coventrians can be
found around the city. Among them James Starley, whose Rover safety cycle,
invented in Coventry in 1885, led to all modern bicycles.
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James Starley Monument |
My favourite bar in Coventry is Inspire
bar. It’s an inspired name – the bar is in an actual spire – and it does nice
beers, nice food, and regularly has live music. The spire was part of the
Church of the Grey Friars built in 1359. The church was demolished in 1542 but
the spire was left standing, and was later incorporated into Christchurch,
built in 1829. This church was destroyed by Second World War bombing in 1941,
but the spire survived. Inspire was
closed when I walked by, but I sincerely hope that this is not a permanent
state and that the place is still running!
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Inspire Bar |
Fords Hospital alms house for
women, established in 1509 and now scheduled as an Ancient Monument. It is
named after William Ford, who endowed the alms houses in his will. Built around
a narrow courtyard, this is one of the most perfect examples of timber farmed
architecture in Britain. The building was badly damaged by bombing during 1940,
but was rebuilt with original timbers in the early 1950s.
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Fords Hospital Alms House "for old ladies of Coventry" |
The façade of Coventry Town Hall
is, in my opinion, intricate and very beautiful. I always think this when I see
it.
One thing I can’t understand is
why anyone with eyes and a brain would then deface it’s beauty with this
monstrosity of a sky-corridor linking it to new council buildings across the
road!
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The Golden Cross pub dates from
1583, but was first mentioned as an inn in 1661. The structure of the building
is typical of the Tudor-style of this period with three vaulted or ‘jettied’
upper floors. As you can see it is currently closed and to let, but the outside
is still pretty special. When I lived in Coventry this pub regularly hosted
live music events, and sometimes attracted an alternative crowd, so I really
hope it can be revived – such a refreshing change from the regular chain-bars
elsewhere in the city.
Very close to the Golden Cross is
St Mary’s Street, which runs to the rear of the Town Hall and down the side of
the old cathedral. It also contains St Mary’s Guildhall, which is free to visit,
and can also be used for weddings (In fact we considered it for our wedding
when we were planning it!) A wedding was going on when I was there on this
occasion, so my interior photos are from an earlier visit. This building really
is spectacular, I love it.
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Old Cathedral to the left, St Mary's Guildhall centre |
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Inside the Guildhall |
Coventry’s old cathedral was
blitzed during the war and just a shell of it survives. It now contains are
work dedicated to peace and reconciliation, and the new replacement cathedral
adjoins it.
The new cathedral has a very unusual style – very 1960s / 70s – and
is sometimes used for events such as concerts and Coventry University
graduation ceremonies (I had mine there back in 2005). The new cathedral also
has Sir Jacob Epstein’s sculpture St Michael's Victory over the Devil.
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The Screen of Saints and Angels, the new Cathedral |
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Old and New |
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Sir Jacob Epstein's 'St Michael's Victory over the Devil' |
Coventry University has main
buildings across a new plaza area from the cathedrals. There has been a lot of
new building at the university since I was there, but one thing that was ready
before I left is the Herbert Art gallery. I’ve never actually been in there,
although I always intended to!
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Herbert Art Gallery |
Walking back towards the city
centre from here you pass Priory Row. These elegant late 18th –
early 19th century town houses were built over the site of the
original cathedral priory, which was founded in 1043. Some of the cellars even
incorporate parts of the priory ruins.
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Priory Row |
Slightly further on from Priory
Row is Holy Trinity Graveyard extension, begun in the 1770s. This has been
excavated and is now a bit of a feature.
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Holy Trinity Graveyard Extension |
I’m not a church-goer, but from a
cultural and historical perspective I do love our old churches in Britain. Holy
Trinity church is my favourite Coventry church, it suffered some damage from
the bombs that destroyed the old Cathedral, which is very nearby, but survived
remarkably intact. This is particularly good news as the church contains the oldest
complete doom (or ‘Last Judgement’) painting in Western Europe.
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Holy Trinity Church Doom painting |
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I love this ceiling |
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I also love
this window. Walking home from work during the winter, in the dark, I
would pass this and the lights from inside the church would make it glow
so beautifully |
The Godiva
statue stands in front of a shopping centre next to Holy Trinity Church. The
real Lady Godiva lived a thousand years ago and was one of the most powerful
women in England. According to legend dating back to at least the 13th
century, she rode naked through the streets of Coventry in protest at the
oppressive taxation imposed by her husband on his tenants. The name
"Peeping Tom" for a voyeur originates from later versions of this
legend in which a man named Tom had watched her ride and was struck blind or
dead.
Across from the Godiva statue is the
Godiva clock (you can see it in the background above). On the hour, Lady Godiva rides out from the wall while Peeping
Tom pops out for a good eyeful!
Walk past the clock onto Hertford
Street, and amongst the ugliness you can see some rather nice doors which
belong to Natwest bank, and a Peeping Tom effigy up on another sky-corridor.
Medieval Spon Street contains a
high concentration of Tudor aged buildings. Many of them are not original to
the street and have been rebuilt there after being saved from demolition in
other streets, and a preservation order is in place to ensure their survival. Other
ancient buildings can be found dotted around Coventry, and I am always amazed
that more is not done to preserve and promote them.
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Spon Street |
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I got my wedding dress from this lovely shop (the one in front, not Ikea!) |
Spon Street and the modern
shopping arcade of Grey Friars Walk contain Coventry’s best concentrations of independent
retailers, and if you like Indian food then I would thoroughly recommend Turmeric Gold on Spon Street. Deee-licious!
If you don't go there, no worries - but if you do, keep your eyes peeled for the gems, and enjoy!
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