Caution - this is a bit of a long one! You may want to get a cuppa before starting ;)
One
of my ‘must do’ things while I was last in Pembrokeshire was to do some proper
coast path walking. I have frequently gone out for a walk along the coast path
and back, both in the area around St Davids to the north and in various parts
of the southern limestone cliff tops. What I had never done, however, was a ‘proper’
walk: leave in the morning, walk all day, stay overnight, and carry on the next
day.
My
ideal walk would have lasted no less than 3 days – this way you get at least
one day where you wake up on the trail in the morning, and go to bed there
again that night. My cycle trip last year on another of our National Trails,
the South Downs Way, was 3 days long, and it does make a difference to know
that you will have that full day, waking to sleeping, out on your mini
adventure!
On
this occasion though, time was eaten away from us at both ends, and our whole
trip to Pembrokeshire was rendered short enough that 3 days simply wasn’t an
option, so we had to settle for 2 days. It didn’t feel quite the same to leave,
knowing that we would be back ‘tomorrow’, not quite such a feeling of
adventure, but a good trip none the less.
I
already owned this book, the official National Trail Guide to the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, and I used
this to choose a section of coast path for our walk. I opted for the northern
coast, as I love the ruggedness up there. Something about the scenery really
speaks to me of ancient settlements, stormy seas, and rugged nature. The south
is also amazing, but I could only choose one part, and the north won for me on
this occasion…
Using
the guide to help plan, I decided to start with ‘day 3’, beginning near
Fishguard, stopping overnight at the recommended point of Trefin, and then
walking ‘day 4’ to Whitesands, at St Davids. My mum dropped us off near our
chosen start point, and we set off. We were running late as my poor mum had
faffed a bit about getting going – I think she was worried about us, and this
manifested in us starting about an hour later than we had planned.
We
walk as quickly as possible through the little bit of town that we had to
pass through to meet the coast path; welcomed to the path by ponies, we feel relief to be there at last. We have
a very long walk ahead of us – over 17 miles (27km) of narrow paths, including 2,854
feet (870m) of ascent, so we begin at bit of a quick pace.
As
we move away from the urban area of Goodwick and the casual dog
walkers, we gradually reach sections of path with no easy access from
roads, where the people we pass are other walkers out for the whole day at
least. Most are friendly and we exchange ‘hellos’ as we pass, but
occasionally we come across someone looking very serious, with their head down
and a look of grim determination of their face – not breaking their stride for
any niceties!
|
Fishguard Harbour |
The
scenery is incredibly diverse even in a very small area as we walk. To begin
with it is fairly typical for the area, with lots of bracken and low cropped gorse
blanketing the rolling cliff tops.
Then
all of a sudden you look up – you have to keep eyes down a lot to watch
your footing! – and you are greeted by a heathland, low growing heather
with outcrops of bare rock, and ancient eroded volcanic rock formations protruding
into the sky.
Then,
most surprisingly, we drop down a steep descent into lush woodland, right
next to the cliffs! A stream winds its way down to the sea between the trees,
while moss and ferns grow in abundance in the dappled light.
Someone
had even been busy building swings on the trees, and the more immature amongst
us may have felt compelled to have a bit of a swing…
Back
up the steep ascent on the other side of this coastal valley, and the variety is clear to see: look back, and you see the tops of the trees we had just come
from.
Look
ahead, and you’re in heather and gorse once again. Amazing :)
Continuing
along a little further, and we begin to keep an eye out for Carreg Wastad and
its memorial stone, commemorating the site of the last invasion of mainland
Britain. The stone is easily found, and it is interesting to see from the
inscription that it had been erected on the 100th anniversary of the
landings, over 100 years ago now!
Yet
further along, still heading west, we come upon the Strumble Head Lighthouse.
From here on we will start to head more southerly, but not before stopping to
eat our packed lunch!
The
day had begun hot, but as we sit with our picnic the wind picks up, clouds
roll in and rain begins behind us. We watch anxiously as the rain comes nearer, not relishing the thought of hours of walking through bad weather. Oddly
however, as we start on our way again the weather turns back to hot sunshine
and clear skies. A lucky escape!
Feeling
slower after lunch, we are able to take more time to enjoy the wildlife we
pass. I point out the funnel web spiders to Adam, the gorse in many places is absolutely covered in these intricate gossamer traps.
We
frequently spot seals bathing off the coast. They are such inquisitive
animals, and seem to enjoy watching us as much as we do them!
|
Not a great photo, but it does contain 5 seals! |
We
also spot many choughs. These birds, related to crows, are quite rare, but
they seem to be doing well in this area as we see plenty of them! They can be
distinguished from crows by their curved bright red/orange beaks, which don’t
show in the photos unfortunately.
As
we head further along this stretch of coast, we start to pass more beaches,
more of which are accessible from the land.
Some
of the beaches are quite popular – although many look different to normal after
the storms earlier in the year. I love this little fort that has been built on Aber
Mawr!
There
are some fantastic cliff formations along this stretch and I take many photos:
By
now the sun is getting lower and we are pretty weary. It was a long day and
we had tried to do it at a much faster pace than would have been ideal. The heat has
taken its toll too, and my feet are aching badly. It is welcome news then when
we check the map to discover that we are not far now from our day’s goal. We have
pre-booked accommodation at the Old School Hostel in Trefin, and when we
finally arrive after a good 10 hours on the trail the lovely hostel is a very
welcome sight! (I reviewed the hostel here)
|
Outside the front of the hostel |
We
go through the welcome and check in procedures at the hostel, which is so
friendly and lovely, and then head to the village pub for some well-earned pub
grub and maybe some Welsh beverages too ;)
Day 2
After
a well-deserved sleep, we wake up in the morning and collect our packed lunch
and our breakfast items from the hostel. We have ordered the hostel’s famous
organic porridge for breakfast, and it is delicious! The oats are soaked
overnight, and the porridge is mixed up with dried fruit and nuts, and mashed
banana. All we have to do is add some milk and heat it on the stove. Mmm mmm
mmm!
It
is another glorious day outside, and we head from the village towards the coast
path again, via these amazing standing stones. There are lots of this type of
thing in Pembrokeshire, and it is one the features of northern Pembrokeshire
that I find so appealing.
Heading
along the coast path again, this time we cover ground that is more familiar to
me – although I haven’t walked the path here before, I have visited the coast
at places such as Porthgain on many occasions, and it’s really interesting to
arrive at such places again but from the trail rather than the road. We pause
briefly at Porthgain – I manage to twist an ankle on the path down towards the little
harbour, so I want a chance to stop and check how bad it is. I have injured my
ankles many times, and they are prone to twisting again as the ligaments are
badly damaged. While this is bad, it does have the upside that twisting my
ankle, while still painful, isn’t always too
damaging as the ligaments are already beyond repair, and I can often sort of ‘walk
it off’.
Porthgain
is tiny, but is a pretty cute place, and attracts lots of visitors. We admire a
camper van and the harbour, before setting off once again up the other side.
Just
along the coast from Porthgain is a site where they used to quarry low grade
slate, and the broken-down buildings from these old works dot the cliff tops.
This
area seems to be alive with Common Blue Butterflies, and I watch so many fly
around us before I am able to get close enough to one that is landed so I can
get a photo.
The
coast is beautiful again, and I enjoy taking in the formations of the cliffs.
This
second day’s walk is shorter than the previous day though, and with aching
muscles and my twisted ankle we decide to make it shorter still. Arriving at
the cliffs above the Blue Lagoon at Abereiddy, we stop to eat our picnic lunch,
provided by the hostel.
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Yummy Brie and Sundried Tomato Sandwiches on Homemade Organic Wholemeal Bread. Not your average hostel food! :) |
Then
we watch the antics at the blue lagoon a little while – lots of cliff jumping,
swimming, paddling and so on. This place is so renowned for cliff jumping that
it was even used in the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series!
We
choose to end our coast path walk at Abereiddy, and we see a cute little lizard
to wish us farewell at the end of our walk.
I am so pleased to have created more happy memories of home to take with us when we leave for Australia :)